Safe to say my blood is becoming dependent on steak, fernet and coke, empanadas and just a little bit or Argentina. Today I arrived back in the only city where you eat steak in a football stadium, speak politics over a parilla and you can find speakeasies under florists. 

I am obsessed with the Paris of South America, modelled after the french capital Buenos Aires is a city  filled with a mix of Italians, Spanish and Jewish refugees. Not only Buenos Aires but Argentina as a whole – whether you wish to dissolve all your tension with the luscious aroma of beef grilling on a parrilla, the magnetic dust of dark tango bars, crumbling facades and the personality of people who’s flair and individuality is matched with unparalleled friendship and fun. 

Every time I come to Buenos Aires, one of the first places I visit is the cemetery. I love wandering around the neglected crypts, elaborately carved and stately pillars with which everyone of the 6400 graves is totally unique.

There is everything from greek temples to miniature Baroque cathedrals, its easy to while away hours in the labyrinthine which makes up the cemetry. One of my personal favourite is the state of Liliana Crociati de Szaszak – she died on honeymoon on the alps, in an avalanche that killed her and her husband. Her grave is made to be like her childhood room made from wood and glass. The statue outside is her standing with her dog Sabu, he allegedly died at the same moment as Liliana despite being on a different continent. The nose of Sabu is said to be lucky to tradition has it if you rub the nose it brings you luck. 

The most famous flower in Argeninta is the FLORIS GENERICA – a 20m stainless steel flower that towers over the Plaza de Flor. I love its geometric shape which stands out in the middle of a green area, but not only that i love the mechanical elements of the statue. The flower opens and closes with the sun, it’s supposed to resemble and symbolise hope being reborn everyday, filling the poetic silence of Buenos Aires. 

Tomorrow I am heading to what is apparently one of the pretties towns in the pampas, approximately 113km northwest of Buenos Aires, the local place for many day tripping porteños. With a peaceful amtosphere and picturesque colonial streets. The town dates from the 18th century and preserves many gaucho and criollo traditions, including find silverware and saddlery – skills I am excited to try and learn. Gauchos from all over gather in November for the Fiesta de la Tradicion, exciting as today is the first of November so hopefully i will get to catch them in the streets stuttering around the cobbled streets in the finest gaucho gear.